Ruhlman's Twenty Chapter 13: Soup

I generally have a hard time envisioning soups as meal-worthy unless for a light meal, or to be served with something more substantial. But then again, I have rarely made soup so my views aren't really all that surprising!

There are two types of soups that Ruhlman discusses: clear and pureed. Clear soups are broth based soups, like classic chicken noodle or miso soup. Pureed soups have a pureed base of vegetables, such as potato, corn, or even fruit soups. As with all cooking, proper seasoning of your soups is extremely important and can transform a dull soup into something extraordinary. Tasting not only for salt, but also acid, is key to making soup. His takeaway tip, as taught to culinary students, is to season a spoonful of the soup (with salt, acid, etc) and notice how it improves, or worsens, the flavor.

Garnishes can play an equally important role in your soups as well, adding a textural dimension that is especially pleasing to the palate. Easy garnishes include crackers on the side of the soup bowl, to homemade croutons floating atop, to blanched and diced vegetables in a pureed soup.

Related Recipes:

• Fresh Tomato Soup with Vodka
• Thai Spiced Pumpkin Soup and Grilled Cheese Sandwich

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Ruhlman's Twenty Chapter 12: Vinaigrette

Vinaigrettes: not just for salads! I know I've never thought of it this way, but a vinaigrette is simply a sauce made of acid and fat. The traditional ratio is three parts oil to one part acid; this is a quick and versatile base which can obviously be changed up by using different acids (vinegar, lemon juice) or fats, then add other ingredients to your liking (onion, garlic, soft herbs, etc).

I make my vinaigrettes one of two ways: combining the ingredients in a mason jar and shaking vigorously, or throwing everything into the blender for a nice, creamy consistency. Either way, I like making a big batch and storing in a glass jar to use throughout the week. This method makes it easy to re-shake and serve. You can also whisk your acid and slowly stream in your oil to emulsify, but be sure to serve right away before it quickly separates.

Ruhlman includes a recipe for lemon-pepper vinaigrette which looks divine!

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Portobello and Bell Pepper Quesadillas

I recently discovered just how "meaty" mushrooms can be...surprising, right? More like I am behind on this revelation. I've been enjoying roasted portobello mushrooms on these quesadillas, but I think they'd be great served in a kale salad too.

For these quesadillas, I recommend pairing with a simple salad to get in more vegetables (I found myself missing this component when served exclusively for dinner). I also like to serve this with a zesty deconstructed guacamole--mashed avocado seasoned liberally with salt, pepper, and lime juice.

Portobello and Bell Pepper Quesadillas

Adapted from The Candle Cafe Cookbook

Ingredients

• 2 large portobello mushrooms, sliced
• 1 red bell peper, sliced
• Olive oil
• 1/4 tsp seasoning salt, or to taste
• 1/4 cumin or chili powder, optional
• 1 1/2 C cooked beans (black, white, or pinto)
• 1 clove garlic
• 1/4 tsp salt, or to taste
• 1/2 tbsp lemon or lime juice
• 6 sprouted grain tortillas
• 1/2 C cheddar or non-dairy cheese

Method

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Toss the sliced mushrooms and bell pepper with oil, salt, and any seasonings. Spread evenly over a large baking sheet and roast for 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, combine beans, garlic, salt, and lemon/lime juice in a food processor or blender. Pulse until incorporated. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed.
3. When the mushrooms and peppers finish roasting, remove from oven and increase temperature to 400 degrees.
4. To assemble the quesadillas, spread the bean mixture over one whole tortilla. Top with one third of the mushroom and pepper mixture, then top with a third of the cheese. Top with another tortilla and place on a baking sheet.
5. Assemble remaining quesadillas, placing in a single layer on the baking sheet. Bake for 15 minutes, flipping half way through. Cut in wedges and serve hot.

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Quinoa Oat Breakfast Porridge with Winter Spices

I've really been enjoying oats for breakfast this winter, especially a hearty bowl of steel cut oats. I originally made this recipe for a spontaneous special weekend breakfast/brunch after eyeing it in a cookbook. The recipe could easily be tweaked to suit your tastes and even the season!

Quinoa Oat Breakfast Porridge with Winter Spices

Adapted from The Candle Cafe Cookbook

Ingredients

• 2 C (non-dairy) milk
• 4 C water
• 1/2 vanilla bean, seeds scraped
• 3-4 tbsp coconut sugar (or use granulated)
• 1/4 tsp crushed cardamom seeds
• 1/4 tsp ground cloves
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1 cinnamon stick, optional
• 1/2 C quinoa, rinsed well
• 1 1/2 C steel cut oats

Method

1. Combine the milk, water, and vanilla bean pod and seeds in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium high heat.**
2. Add the spices, quinoa, and oats to the pan. Reduce heat to medium low and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. The mixture will thicken as it cooks.
3. Cover and remove from heat. Allow to sit for 10 minutes before serving or storing.

**Optionally steep the spices in the milk and water as you bring it to a boil. This will result in a stronger spice flavor.

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Cardamom Orange Simple Syrup with Coconut Sugar

I was intrigued by an orange cardamom cold brew post I saw on Pinterest, why had I never considered this combination? I love the flavor of cardamom, so it was only a natural to use the flavors as inspiration for a simple syrup recipe. A few weeks ago, I bought coconut palm sugar and have been planning on trying simple syrup. This recipe uses half coconut sugar and half regular sugar. Feel free to use all regular sugar if you don't have coconut on hand.

I'm using this in milky black tea as a sweetener and will definitely use it to make a Cardamom Orange Latte later this weekend! The orange flavor is surprisingly subtle once cooled which gives way for the stronger cardamom to shine through. I bet this would be great drizzled over a sponge cake to add an extra punch of flavor or drizzled over vanilla ice cream for an extra special touch.

Cardamom Orange Simple Syrup with Coconut Sugar

Inspired by 10th Kitchen

Ingredients

• 1/2 C coconut sugar
• 1/2 C granulated sugar
• Zest of 1 organic orange
• 6 cardamom pods, crushed, or about 25 cardamom seeds
• 1 C water

Method

1. Combine all ingredients in a small saucepan over medium heat.
2. Bring mixture to a boil, then simmer for about a minute.
3. Strain syrup and store in an airtight container in the fridge.

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Korean Brown Sugar Pancakes

I discovered this browsing the internet on my phone and have had the page saved for a month now! I'd been craving something doughy and sweet for several days when I suddenly remembered this hidden gem saved. Simple, sweet, and tasty, I think I'll be making these again.

I tweaked the recipe a bit, using maple cinnamon nuts, vanilla sugar, and vanilla bean seeds in the filling. The subtle cinnamon flavor reminded me of cinnamon rolls!

Korean Brown Sugar Pancakes

Adapted from Notions and Notations of a Novice Cook

Ingredients

• 1 C all-purpose flour
• 1/2 C warm water
• 1 tbsp vanilla sugar
• 1 tsp dry active yeast
• 2 tsp coconut oil, melted
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1/4 C brown sugar
• 1 1/2 tbsp chopped maple cinnamon nuts, or toasted nuts
• 1 vanilla bean, seeds scraped
• Coconut oil, for frying

Method

1. In a bowl, combine the warm water, sugar, yeast, oil, and salt. Let sit for 5-10 minutes until the yeast begins to foam up. If this does not happen, dump out and begin again.
2. Stir in the flour to make a wet dough. Cover and let sit in a warm spot to rise for about an hour, until doubled in size. Punch the dough down, cover again, and allow to rest for about a half hour.
3. In a small bowl, combine the brown sugar, nuts, and vanilla bean seeds. Set aside.
4. Pour dough out onto a floured surface and knead lightly, adding flour as needed to keep it from sticking. Cut into four evenly sized balls.
5. Take one ball of dough and flatten it in your hand. Place a heaping tablespoon of the brown sugar filling into the center of the dough, then carefully pinch the sides of the dough to the top to seal the ball. Repeat with the remaining balls of dough.
6. Heat a cast iron skillet over medium heat. Add enough coconut oil to lightly cover the pan. Place one or two dough balls, seam side down, onto the hot pan.
7. Allow to cook and begin to brown, checking after 30 seconds. Flip, then press down with a spatula to flatten. Cook for 1-2 minutes until the bottom is golden brown. Flip once more, cover, and let cook for a minute to heat the center.
8. Cook the remaining dough following the same method.
9. Serve warm.

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Maple Cinnamon Candied Nuts

When I go without them for a while, I forget how much I enjoy roasted nuts. Great for snacking, adding crunch to a bowl of oatmeal or salad, these are definitely a multipurpose ingredient in my kitchen.

This recipe is so simple to make, and even better because I always have the ingredients on hand. Three cups of nuts feels like a lot, but a batch lasts me at least a couple weeks, depending on how liberally I eat them. It's just about time for me to make another batch!

Maple Cinnamon Candied Nuts

Ingredients

• 3 cups mixed raw nuts (walnuts, pecans, almonds, brazil nuts, cashews, etc)
• 1/4 C maple syrup
• 1/2 tsp cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp salt

Method

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl, stirring to incorporate the syrup and cinnamon evenly over the nuts.
3. Spray a baking sheet with oil, then pour the nuts onto the pan, spreading them evenly.
4. Bake for about 20 minutes, stirring a few times to ensure even roasting.
5. Cool and store in an airtight container.

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Warm Wilted Kale Salad with Lemon, Garlic, and Ancho Chili

I've been on a kale kick since I had my first delicious kale salad about a month ago now. Kale used to be one of those foods I wanted to like, but never found the right recipe. My success came first when I warmed up to massaged kale salads which soften the leaves and make it a little less bitter. My favorite this week is a wilted kale salad, lightly sautéed in a pan with olive oil and some spices.

This recipe, surprisingly, was my first attempt at wilted kale salad, but the flavors make kale more universally appealing. Nutritional yeast gives it a slight cheesiness while ancho chili powder gives it a bit of roasted smokiness. Feel free to sub in paprika if you don't have ancho chili powder on hand, I think it would be a nice pairing.

Wilted Kale Salad with Lemon, Garlic, and Ancho Chili

Ingredients

• 1 bunch lacinato kale, cleaned and chopped
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 1/2 small lemon, juiced
• 1 tbsp nutritional yeast
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1/8 tsp pepper
• Rounded 1/4 tsp ancho chili powder or paprika
• 1/4 tsp garlic powder

Method

1. In a large saute pan, warm the olive oil over medium heat.
2. Add the kale and saute for about 1 minute. Add the lemon juice and continue cooking for another minute or so until the kale begins to turn bright green.
3. Add the nutritional yeast, salt, pepper, ancho chili powder, and garlic powder to the kale, stirring to incorporate the seasoning. Taste and adjust seasonings if needed.
4. Serve hot.

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How to Cut an Orange

It's prime citrus season again which means specials on all kinds of oranges and grapefruits. I especially love heirloom navel oranges and they make a great snack or after meal fruit. I didn't learn there was a "good" way to slice oranges until last year, so I want to pass the favor on! It reminds me of the time I learned how to cut a pineapple....mind blowing still.

I used to cut my oranges horizontally, but then I discovered you should cut them laterally first to get the nice segments. A quick Google search popped up this great tutorial on the process: My Favorite Way to Cut an Orange. You will be an orange slicing hero in no time!

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Ruhlman's Twenty Chapter 11: Sauce

The wonderful world of pan sauces! Just reading this chapter made my mouth water and eager to make a sauce or two of my own. As wonderful and easy it is to make a quick pan sauce after cooking or roasting meats, most of the time I feel too lazy to put forth additional effort to make a sauce. I regret this fact especially after reading Ruhlman's emphasis on the subject. Sometimes getting the meat out of the pan as quickly as possible and starting the pan soaking process feels a little more urgent.

How to Create a Pan Sauce

Creating a pan sauce is a very simple process: after cooking/roasting your meats, your pan has all kinds of great flavorful browned bits stuck to the bottom. This stuff is begging to be used and costs nothing to you; use it!

1. Optionally add sliced onions and/or carrots (for sweetness) and let them develop a little color.
2. Deglaze the pan with about 1 cup of water (or liquid, such as stock or wine) and bring to a boil. Use a spoon to scrape up all the bits and wait for almost all the water to cook off. At this point, add another cup of liquid.
3. Your sauce is waiting for a little something extra now, so add a splash of acid (lemon juice, vinegar, etc), maybe a little butter or cream for richness, soft herbs, just get creative!
4. Strain your sauce and you've got a fancy looking sauce for your food with minimal effort.

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